New Yard Restaurant – Trelowarren

December 13, 2014 by becca.lazar No Comments

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You don’t end up at the New Yard Restaurant by mistake. Set deep in the heart of the Trelowarren Estate, on The Lizard, you’ve got to either want to be there, or be extremely lost. Cornish Holiday Cottages were there by no accident.

The sprawling and beautiful estate once spanned 20,000 acres – now a meagre 1,000 – and has been in the Vyvyan family for 600 years.  From the Helford River to the cusp of Goonhilly Downs, there’s a lot of history to Trelowarren, some beautiful woodland walks and an archaeological treasure in an Iron Age fogou.

The New Yard Restaurant is housed in an old coach house, but the restaurant itself almost has the feel of a Raymond Chandler novel. With large black and white tiles on the floor and repurposed anglepoise lamp heads hanging from the ceiling, there’s a monochrome, but sophisticated ambience.

The current menu reflects this fashion savvy interior, but somehow retains the sense of heritage that comes with an English Estate. Head Chef, Max, is a keen forager and the restaurant is well stocked from the larder of local produce: there are oysters from the Helford River; fish and shellfish caught by local dayboats; game from the estate; fruit and herbs from local farmers, too. Everything, including the bread, is freshly made on site.

We started our lunch-time meal with a miso broth, seaweed, wild mushrooms and tofu. There was no tofu though. The friendly, informal waiting staff apologised for this but they really didn’t need to, as it was delicious without it. The broth had a warming saltiness to it and a hint of seaweed added a certain sweetness to the flavour.

For our main course we had Cornish Crab, pumpkin and parmesan macaroni, which did a fantastic job of blending the lightness of the crab and pumpkin with the rich parmesan.

We also had slow roasted pheasant leg with a pheasant black pudding parcel, from the specials board. The bird must have been sourced onsite as I even found a piece of shot. That in no way detracted from the dish though, as it was an outstanding and original dish, served with creamed leeks and baby onions. I can’t express how delicious the black pudding parcel was.

From there, we at Cornish Holiday Cottages, just managed to squeeze in a dessert between two of us. A hot chocolate pudding with figs and home made honey ice cream. It was a beautifully decedent lunch. One that would be best coupled with a long, long walk in the woods.

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