The Seafood Bar – Falmouth

August 27, 2015 by becca.lazar No Comments

From the outside, The Seafood Bar is very obviously a seaside restaurant. Less than 50 metres from the seafront, down a side street, there’s the white and blue façade, the thick square windows, there’s a pine door that you have to hunker down to enter, then there’s the array of blackboards with specials and desserts trying to coax in passers-by. It’s also something of an anachronism on the streets of Falmouth. It’s in a part of town heaving with fashionable restaurants, reclaimed wooden signs and battleship grey exteriors as well as gourmet burger joints and burrito bars.

The Seafood bar doesn’t go in for any of that though. It’s refreshing:  a family restaurant run by Kerry up front and her son, Ben, in the kitchen. The atmosphere is laid back, friendly and unpretentious. Kerry is warm and interested, as is the other waitress. There’s no candle on our table, but when this is noticed it’s rectified with a giggle, ‘where’s the romance on this table?’

The Seafood Bar 5

The two rooms which make up the restaurant are cosy and being six foot I have to squeeze into position. Glass floats in nets and other fishing paraphernalia decorate the walls. It doesn’t appear to have been changed since it opened – and neither should it.

Unpretentious is a word that also rightfully describes the food. This is a seafood lover’s restaurant: crab is served whole, prawns come with the shells on and main courses are usually served with their tails. It’s the sort of menu that lives and dies by the quality of its ingredients. And the fish is fresh. If it’s not landed that day, then it doesn’t go on the menu. Pollack is replaced with hake and the scallops are off when we visit – they didn’t come in this morning.

The Seafood Bar 2

We start with a potted crab and moules mariniere. There’s a sweet hint of fennel to the crab and well, you can’t go wrong with steamed mussels. There’s a homespun playfulness to the presentation too – little beetroot hearts adorn the plate. The main courses are a picture of home cooked comfort, make me wonder if this is how fishermen ate a hundred years ago. The fish pie is a huge bowl of creamy potato, salmon, cod, prawns and is topped with a thick layer of crispy cheese. It’s a beautiful bowl of comfort food.

The Seafood Bar 6

We couple this with a whole megrim soul in lemon butter. The fish flakes from the bone, but it takes me a while to remember where they are in sole and I end up picking a few out during the first few mouthfuls – whoops.

On the table behind us – I really have to crane my neck to see – they’re having the seafood platter, which is a huge sharing plate of crab, mussels, oysters and sweet king prawns accompanied by loads of bread for £48. For shellfish lovers it’s a dream.

So is The Seafood Bar a grand gastronomic experience? Of course not. It’s not got grand designs on that level. It’s seafood, brought from the nets to the plate with the minimal of middlemen.

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