Star and Garter, Falmouth

March 2, 2016 by becca.lazar No Comments

Last week we recommended Falmouth’s ‘The Star and Garter’ as the perfect place for Easter lunch. There’s a reason for that: it’s our new favourite foodie haunt.

Opening in August of last year, we were a little dubious at first – The old Star and Garter used to host a pretty mean jazz night and was pretty legendary in its own right – but were won over as soon as we sat down to a lunch of seafood linguine one autumn afternoon. The décor hits the right balance between vintage and modern, but its stand out features are the windows that stretch across the back wall offering an unparalleled view of the river.

The Star and Garter

The Star and Garter has a rich history, having been open since 1892, so new landlords, Elliot and Becca Thompson, have taken on a thick slice of Falmouth’s culture. In fact, if they hadn’t stepped in, it would likely have become a block of flats.

Being a trained chef, Elliot could well have stepped into the kitchen himself, but their kitchen is bursting with talent, manned as it is with three chefs from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen. They have a lot of toys to play with too. An open-plan kitchen contains a ceramic bbq, pickling area and butchery room. So you know that there’s a lot of love and fun going into the food.

Seafood Linguine

There’s ideology to go with the expertise. ‘We have a strong ethic about our food, respect the animals and produce we use. We waste nothing – properly subscribing to the ‘nose to tail’ philosophy,’ Elliot has told Cornwall Living magazine. They do all their own butchery, make their own sausage meat and are always smoking or brining things.

The View From The Star and GarterCornish Holiday Cottage’s first experience of their home butchery was when we shared a platter of venison with friends one evening. Huge, roughly hewn chunks of venison melted in our mouths, accompanied with roasted fennel and a rich jus. Our window seat looked out over the Falmouth estuary and the lights of Flushing twinkled across the water. The atmosphere was buzzing.

You do have to be warned though: the menu is never going to be what you expect. Everyday there’s something different going on and they’re not afraid to experiment. Wood pigeon may be on the menu one night, a rabbit ragu at lunch time, so you definitely need to go in with an open mind. They make their own pork pies, scotch eggs and things do run out – so get there for an early sitting in the evenings.

Sunday Roast

We last visited the Star and Garter for Sunday lunch and luckily we had booked. People that turned up on the day were all sadly turned away. What set The Star and Garter’s roast apart was the seriously seasonal veg and the detailed preparation behind each joint of meat. The beef was a succulent medium rare with a delicate smokiness, whilst the pork was slow roasted to the point where it was more shredded than sliced. Chard cabbage, roasted beetroot, crisp high rise Yorkshire puddings and Beef fat roast potatoes offered a crispiness on a par with anything we’ve ever managed to cook ourselves.

The only complaint we’d have about the Star and Garter is that we wanted, no needed, more.

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