Hunky Dory, Falmouth

November 17, 2014 by becca.lazar No Comments

hunkey dorey

Nestled between an artisan coffee shop and a curry house lies Hunky Dory.   Outside, the grade II listed frontage is modernised by the sky blue signage, modest in comparison to the many glass-fronted eateries that dominate Falmouth’s Arwenack Street.

This is where we spent a quiet Tuesday night this week. A night in which the pavement outside Hunky Dory gathered so much water, the road split open as if a mini earthquake was upon us.

Wooden beams run through the ceilings of the small, intimate rooms of Hunky Dory, supported by sturdy, old pillars that give the place the feel of an old cottage.

Hunky Dory aims to give a modern take on British food with French and Italian influences: hogs pudding scotch eggs accompanying a Cornish belly pork anyone; A Wild Mushroom and Davidstow Cheddar Soufflé, perhaps? With ingredients sourced locally, the head chef obviously has fun creating dishes.

Boasting a well stocked bar, Hunky Dory are keeping it local. There are sparkling wines from Camel Valley, the artisan ales from the Rebel Brewery and cider and fruit juices from Cornish Orchards.

Most mains are priced between £14 and £23, but during the week and between 6 and 7 at the weekend, they offer two courses for £16 or three for £19.

We started off with arancini, Thai fish cakes and a potted ham hock with mustard butter. I can’t speak for the quality of the hock or the fish cakes, but the arancini were crispy and accompanied with a delicious homemade pesto – which is definitely something I’ll now try at home.

We followed our starters with whole Cornish plaice and a confit Cornish duck leg. The plaice came draped in a crab and Pernod butter, which was almost the best thing on the plate. The duck was perfectly cooked with the meat flaking from the bone and into the Cointreau gravy. We all pushed our knives and forks together content.

That didn’t mean that we couldn’t find some room for dessert. I finished my meal with a plum and hazelnut crumble, which balanced the tart nature of the fruit with the warm, nuttiness of the topping.

We left happy people. The earth may have cracked open while we were inside Hunky Dory, but, inside its cosy , country cottage-like shelter, we hadn’t even noticed.

 

 

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